Luini Panzerotti

Recessionista dining in Milan.

One of the delicacies that Milan is famous for is the Panzerotto. This is not originally from Milan but has gained such popularity that the Mayor has given it the Municipal seal of approval.  This delicacy is also now popularly identified with Milan.

The place has long lines but they go fast.  It's best to know what you want before you hit the counter but, if you are like a deer caught in headlights once you reach the counter, you'll probably be OK taking a chance on any selection.

The panzerotto (panzerotti is plural)  is essentially dougnut dough filled with an assortment of fillings (prosciutto & cheese, spinach & ricotta, salami & cheese, spicy cheese - my fave!), then the whole thing is deep fried.  

It did not taste greasy at all, sort of like a fried pizza.  At around €3 apiece, this could be one of the cheapest meals you will have in Milan!

It also comes in a sweet version.  I tried the chocolate and orange and pretty much stuck to this flavor for the rest of the trip.  In this case, the dough is more of a shortbread cookie dough.  Deeelish!
Luini is located on a small street behind the Duomo close to the upscale department store, La Rinascente.

A Night at the Opera

Il Viaggio a Rheims at the Teatro alla Scala.

(The venerable Teatro alla Scala)

I haven't been to a full-length opera and what better way to experience my first opera than the mecca of operas - the Teatro alla Scala? 

(Outside the theatre)

Fortunately, there was an opera playing the night we were there. Il Viaggio a Rheims was on it's last few performances and we hastily purchased (expensive!) tickets. But it all turned out to be worth it.

(At our box seats with my program)

Il Viaggio a Rheims was an opera by Gioachino Rossini, the last he wrote in Italian. He did not intend it to be performed for more than 4 performances since he was also using the music for another opera he was writing. But Charles II of France wanted an opera to commemorate his coronation so this was created just for the occasion.

About the opera: In those days, the coronations were done in Rheims, not in Paris, and this opera chronicles the thwarted attempts of an international array of characters to get their asses to Rheims for the coronation only to find out that the coronation party was making their way back to Paris for additional celebrations.

(Scala grand chandelier)

(Scala interior)

The Teatro alla Scala was smaller than I expected but the acoustics are excellent. We were fortunate to have box seats which we shared with a Japanese family of three. I also did not notice that the booth had super titles for translation until after the intermission.

(Box Seats)

(The super title screen for the English translations)

(The royal procession makes its way to the stage)

The staging of the opera was minimalist and they had large video screens showing the royal procession outside the theatre making their way to the Scala signifying the coronation party's arrival in Paris which I thought was very clever. Also, if you haven't been to the Opera before, or accompanying who hasn't been, it's a good idea to pick a bel canto opera since they are usually filled with pretty melodies and will probably be a short one. This opera had only one intermission and was very easy to watch.

(At last, the royal procession arrives!)

(Curtain call)

(Curtain call)

(Scala ballroom)

(Scala ballroom)

During intermission, they opened up the ballroom for some refreshments which included champagne, light beverages, chocolates and sandwiches. It was very pleasant and not crowded and everyone was gorgeously dressed except for me who looked like I should be picking up the empties and swabbing the floor! Hahaaaa!

Barbie for Kartell

Plastic meets fantastic.

I came across this by accident since the Kartell flagship store was around the corner from our hotel in Milan.

It was Kartell's 60th anniversary and Barbie's 50th so the two icons of plastic came together and came up with the Barbie line for Kartell (purveyor of the famous Ghost chair among others).

(Kartell Flagship, Via Turati, Milan)

There were some Italian design celebrities at the opening who I was not familiar with (how sad).

(Kartell Event Lounge)

They set up a lounge outside the store for the opening event. This was right before the big Milan Furniture Show.

(Barbie Ghost chair, Barbie Charles stool, and Bougie lamp)

They created a special edition pink Barbie Ghost Chair with a vintage sketch of Barbie on the seat back and a special edition PINK Bourgie lamp.

(Barbie Ghost Chair)

(Barbie Girl in her Barbie World)

They also had window displays with life-size Barbies wearing vintage Moschino set among other Kartell iconic furniture.

(Skipper with Gnome table)

(Barbie with green Charles stool. normaluisa flats are on the green rolling cart)

(Barbie with original Ghost Chair)

(Barbie with Mademoiselle Chair & normaluisa flats on the blue cubes)

(Barbie's Pink Fiat)

They also had a Barbie Pink Fiat parked outside the store. I would have driven off with it but I don't drive shtick!

(Barbie Pink Fiat)

(Pink Shoes)

One of the guest was wearing her Barbie Pink shoes with her LBD. The Kartell store also sold pink and white plastic ballerina flats by normaluisa, available exclusively only at the Kartell flagship store in Via Turati, Milan.

(Barbie inspired shopping ensemble)

Later, I hit the recessionista and OFW shopping haven - Via Corso Buenos Aires with my Barbie inspired pink shirt and pink bag shopping tote.

One Day Wonder

Milan sightseeing in one day.

Being a recently inducted recessionista, I was determined to do minimal shopping in Milan and take my fill of sightseeing instead.  Well, as they say, resistance is futile.  Milan is the Lourdes of shopping so the sooner you can get the sightseeing out of the way, the better!  Of course, I jest.  Milan may not be as pretty as it's other Italian counterparts like Firenze and Roma, it's still just as interesting and charming.  And those with stronger sales resistance will have a field day as well as the pilgrim shoppers.

(Milano Centrale Station)

The Central Station is a good start since you can reach most, if not all, of Milan from here.  This was the station that Mussolini built.  Aside from being known as Il Duce, he was famous for making the Italian trains run on time.

(Giardini Pubblici)

(Giardini Pubblici)

The Public Gardens or Giardini Pubblici is a welcome respite with plenty of shady tree lanes and a dog park.  This is one of the oldest parks in Europe and was built on the site of two monasteries.  You can reach Corso Buenos Aires (read as: shopping!) from one of the corners.

(Teatro alla Scala)

If you are an opera fan, you must make a stop and worship at Teatro alla Scala.  The theatre does not look like much but if you can catch an opera here, it's really worth the time and money.  All the opera greats have performed here like Callas, Pavarotti and Domingo.

(Duomo Cathedral)

Literally at the center of Milan is the Duomo Cathedral.  It took 600 years to build this church and it looks like they forgot to build a bell tower.  The city radiates from this point.

(Duomo Interior)

The interior is very serene and services were actually being held as well-behaved tourists walked along the perimeter.

(View from the Duomo spires)

The church has more than 100 spires each topped by a saint.  The tallest spire is topped by a gold leaf Madonnina, the patron of the city of Milan.  Not to be confused with Madonna, patron saint of Malawi.

You can climb to the top of the spire via stairs or elevator.  We took the stairs for  €5 fee.  

(Duomo Piazza)

This is the amazing view of the piazza from the very top of the Duomo.  To the right is the temple of shopping, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.

(Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II)

(Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II)

One of the oldest malls in the world, this atrium style shopping paradise has Gucci, Prada and Louis Vuitton among its illustrious tenants.

(The Little Bull)

One of the lovely mosaics on the floor is the famous Little Bull.  It is said that if you step on the bulls balls with your heel and spin around, you will have good luck.  I hope it works, even though, I'm wearing my $23 plastic ShoeMart shoes (hey, don't judge!)

(Louis Vuitton at Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II)

(McCafe at Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II)

It may be appalling for some to see a McCafe accross from Louis Vuitton and Prada.  The Filipino staff at the counter were very nice though.

(Castello Sforzesco)

The Castello Sforzesco is were the dukes of Milan lived.  Another famous resident is Leonardo Da Vinci who lived here for some time.  He designed a canal system for transporting material to build the Duomo, among other things.

(Castello Sforzesco Courtyard)

(Santa Maria della Grazie)

For all you Da Vinci Code fans, this church might look familiar.  The Santa Maria della Grazie contains the famous Last Supper by Da Vinci.  If you would like to see the fresco, you would have to book waaaaay in advance.  They only allow 25 people per hour to view the painting to control the humidity since the painting is deteriorating fast.

(Santa Maria della Grazie)

(Bar Magenta)

You may want to conclude your sightseeing at one of the local bars for an aperitivo.  It's basically happy hour where the price of the drink doubles but you get some chichetta or little bites with your drink.  Some places have unlimited buffet while the Bar Magenta gives you one small plate per drink.  It's a lovely little Art Noveau bar southeast of the Duomo on Corso Magenta.

(Streets of Milan)

Now, you're ready to hit the stores!!! (If you haven't already)

Other places you may want to check out if you have the time:

+ Pinacoteca Brera and the Brera District

+ Navigli district nighlife

+ Da Vinci Museum

+ Fiero Milano

+ Meoseo dell' Ottocento

+ Venice

Buon Giorno, Milano!

Good Morning, Milan!

(Milan Malpensa Airport)

Milan has two airports, Malpensa and Linate. Linate, the older of the two is closer to the city and usually used for domestic flights. Malpensa is 40 minutes away by train (about €85 by taxi – yikes!) and is considered the international airport. There is a train that takes you direct to one of the major stations in Milan (Cadorna) from which you can take a cab or Metro to anywhere in the city. The Malpensa costs a very reasonable €11.

The Malpensa Express traverses the lovely Italian countryside which turns into mad greyness as you near the city. Milan is not the prettiest of the Italian cities I've been to. I was surprised to see how large the city was. I was thinking I could just leisurely traipse along one side of the town to the other but that would only be possible if I traipsed in a limo with a good supply of Cristalle on hand.

Here's some advice. DO NOT take the Metro or bus once you arrive in Cadorna if you are carrying luggage. Even the locals get confused exiting the Metro so you can just imagine the horrors of negotiating the labyrinthine paths and multiple steps of the Metro with heavy luggage.

The first conversation I overheard as soon as I got into the Metro train was:

“Nakabili ka na ba ng sili para sa pinakbet?”

Yes, Milan is teeming with OFW's (Overseas Filipino Workers), which gives one a nice warm feeling in a strange city full of strangers. I guess Milan is Manila spelled backwards (forwards and sideways).

One thing I find really nice about Milan is that it was more diverse than I expected. There were Asians, Pakistani, Indians, Africans, assorted Euros and those wonderful Italians! I quickly found out that not all Italians are cute (a lot of them are) but always charming.



Another thing about Milan, in my opinion, is that it has a strong American influence in fashion and lifestyle. I'm not sure if we influenced Milan or Milan influenced America. I find that they dress impeccably and conservatively for business and those I've seen in casual dress makes me feel I never left Los Angeles. There was grunge, skate, california surf, goth, rock, tween madness everywhere. And you can easily shop for the look as well in the myriad stores that dot the city.

Milanese also dine earlier than I expected. I found out that people dined around 8pm here (like in the US). Whereas, when I was in Spain, 9pm was considered early dinner. I was hard pressed to find restaurants that served past 11pm, save for the Chinese restaurant that served spaghetti alongside the usual Chinese fare.